15th June, 2009 - Posted by Archbishop Mark - 1 Comment
I did a radio interview this morning about the Pilgrimage with Genevieve Jacobs of ABC Canberra. She asked at one point whether we were going to Damascus, and that made me think of other missing steps in our Pilgrimage in SOME of the Footsteps of St Paul - missing steps in the Middle East. Damascus is one of the obvious ones, but again it’s a long way from Greece, Turkey and Italy. Paul might have had the time, energy and money to sweep the Mediterranean and the Middle East, but unfortunately we don’t. (more…)
14th June, 2009 - Posted by Neil Harrigan - 4 Comments
-Coppenhagen, Denmark
Neil Harrigan, who recently completed his PhD thesis on the Spirituality of Pilgrimage, shares some thoughts about Princess Mary, the Australian experience and learning through pilgrimage.
14th June, 2009 - Posted by Archbishop Mark - 1 Comment
I was looking at the Pilgrimage itinerary this morning, and it struck me that perhaps it should be called Pilgrimage in SOME of the Footsteps of St Paul. Because re-reading the Murphy-O’Connor life of Paul, I can see more than ever just how many footsteps the Apostle took. He must have had a great pair of legs - not so much for looks perhaps but for function. I read the other day that the Australian fast bowlers are working hard in England at the moment trying “to put a lot of miles in their legs” for the Ashes series. Well, Paul probably wasn’t much of a bowler and I doubt that he ever embarked upon the flash fitness programs of our bowlers, but he had any number of miles in his legs. Can you imagine Paul playing cricket?! (more…)
16th June, 2009 - Posted by Archbishop Francis - 1 Comment
I am looking forward with great anticipation to being part of the pilgrimage and to getting to know St. Paul better. I pray that both the real and virtual pilgrims will grow spiritually through the experience.
16th June, 2009 - Posted by Sister Barbara - 1 Comment
Please welcome to the blog, Sister Barbara Murray (read about her in About the Bloggers), who will be leading us virtual pilgrims into reflection, prayer and action as we seek to apply what we have learned from tracing St Paul’s steps with Archbishop Mark, Archbishop Francis, Neil Harrigan and the rest for the pilgrimage group!
Her first post on ‘Action in the Footsteps of Saint Paul’ follows… (more…)
16th June, 2009 - Posted by Archbishop Mark - 1 Comment
One of the most difficult things to know about St Paul is whether or not he ever got to Spain. We know from the Letter to the Romans that he definitely had it in mind, and it would have fitted well with his sense of himself as one sent to preach the Gospel where others hadn’t gone. By the standards of the time, Spain was quite accessible - only seven days sailing from Ostia, the port of Rome.
16th June, 2009 - Posted by Archbishop Mark - No Comments
Word came to me from Canberra that the pilgrims had left - a little late but they were up and away. I sent a text to Fr Francis Kolencherry who is handling the logistics of the Pilgrimage. I just wanted to wish the group Buon Viaggio. I didn’t expect a reply from the plane, but I got what I expected from the ever reliable Fr Francis - a reply from Singapore once the pilgrims had made it that far. He told me that things were fine and that they were having fun. I tried to imagine what that might have meant on the flight from Sydney to Singapore. But I was glad to hear it because fun has always been part, if not the whole, of the pilgrimage experience. Chaucer’s pilgrims of The Canterbury Tales are shown as having quite a rollick. Let’s hope we’re still having fun by the end of the journey.
13th June, 2009 - Posted by Archbishop Mark - 7 Comments
Today I moved from the Beda College to the English College villa at Palazzola in the Alban Hills just outside Rome. I thought a day or two in the hills breathing a different air might help to fine-tune my preparations for the Pilgrimage. I’ve lived up in this part of the world before when I was a chaplain to the Marist Brothers in Nemi just down the road from where I am now. That was years ago when I was doing my doctorate. But I learned to loved this part of the world, the Castelli Romani as they call it in Italian. It’s only a stone’s throw away from Rome, but it’s another planet. I can remember driving back here in summer after meals in Rome, and you could feel the air cooling and drying as you rose into the hills back to the Castelli. In the hills here there are two lakes - the bigger Lake Albano where I am now and the smaller Lake Nemi just down the road where I used to be. Just across the lake from Palazzola lies Castelgandolfo where the Pope has his summer villa.
18th June, 2009 - Posted by Archbishop Mark - 3 Comments
I suppose today counts as Day 1, but it was really assembly day. Most of the pilgrims arrived early this morning, with Neil and Mary Harrigan arriving yesterday and myself arriving via Budapest this afternoon. I was hoping to find Archbishop Carroll bursting out of his skin after the magic potion he’d been given in Singapore, but he was no good when I got to the hotel. He’d gone for a walk in the heat and it hadn’t been quite what the doctor ordered, although he blamed a pie he ate in Yass on Monday. He wisely decided not to join us for Mass at 6.00pm in the Catholic Cathedral of Athens which is dedicated to the patron saint of the city, St Denis.
18th June, 2009 - Posted by Neil Harrigan - No Comments
Some of the pilgrims have taken the chance to see the sights with our guide for the next week, including visiting the Cathedral in Athens where we will share our first Eucharist together. Our spiritual journey begins, how often do we all feel we have to start our spiritual journey again and again. Enjoy the photos!
18th June, 2009 - Posted by Sister Barbara - 1 Comment
Our pilgrims this morning start the day with the celebration of the Eucharist at Athens. Let’s continue to accompany them though our prayer and reflection. Following on from our previous “action” post perhaps now, while continuing with our praying for peace we could add the following as a daily action: that for this day we shall pledge ourselves to one specific (named) action that will make peace a reality, in the home, at work, with another person with whom I find it difficult to talk to (or to listen to). (more…)
19th June, 2009 - Posted by Neil Harrigan - No Comments
After an afternoon experiencing all the difficulties and failures Paul experienced in Corinth today, we commence our days tracking St Paul at sea. Yesterday Archbishop Coleridge taught us to view our evangelisation with its ups and downs in the way of the footsteps of Paul.
An hour or so to snooze our way to Corinth lulled by the hum of engine, the heat of midday and the effects of our strenuous morning.
We’ve been joined by two young priests studying in Rome, who sought out our tour. Kay is feeling a bit squeamish this morning - I hope it doesn’t spoil her day.
As the bus edges into the narrow streets of Corinth we can smell the sea - salty, slightly rancid. What is that, I wonder?
The bus squeezes into seemingly impossible spaces as we travel through the ‘new’ Corinth - which has been there for centuries. (more…)
22nd June, 2009 - Posted by Archbishop Mark - No Comments
Patmos and Ephesus is a big double in one day, but that’s what it’s been for us. I’d been to Ephesus about twenty-five years ago, but I’d never been to Patmos, even though the place had always intrigued me. The tradition of St John’s presence there and of Patmos as the place he wrote the Apocalypse is strong, but in the end I don’t know what to make of it. I know all the scholarly arguments which suggest that the Apostle John didn’t write the Apocalypse, even if it bears the hallmarks of the Johannine tradition. One of the fascinating things about the New Testament is the way in which it weaves together in a great tapestry all the different strands of primitive Christianity - the Pauline, the Johannine, the Petrine and so on. Each was a distinctive voice - if I may change metaphor - but all the voices are brought together triumphantly into a single harmonious voice which bears witness to the communion of the Church inwhich there are many different voices but no cacophony; only the harmonics of Paradise.
Whatever the empirical truth - which is probably irretrievable - Patmos was very evocative on a glorious Aegean morning. These islands rise like bare rocks from the sapphire waters, yet in the morning light the islands themselves seemed like jewels. Travel on the water was a nightmare for Paul, but he must have breathed a sigh of admiration as he saw these jewel-like rocks rising from the mirror waters on a summer morning. (more…)
Returning to Ephasus and the house of Mary after 21 years was a very different experience considering the number of pilgrims.
However as previously it was a wonderful spiritual time especially the mass. The mass was very meaningful. I feel blessed and grateful for the oportuinity to be with this great group. I carry the prayers of all my loved ones and friends in my heart.
Stephen Utick
I have taken a large collection of photos showing key sights relating to Paul’s journeys and of all the pilgrims which I will share with the readers when I return. I am extending my prayers and best wishes as today, following the extraordinary experiences of Patmos and Ephesus, we journey to Meteora and its Monasteries. There were some fascinating religious and cultural points which I have picked up from the specialist guides which would make riveting reading. God bless!
Mary Harrigan
Sunday we visited Patmos where John lived and did some of his writings. We then visited the house of the virgin mary and ephesus. This was a very significant day. Even though it was rushed we saw everything that was on the tour for the day. Our physical journey today Monday takes us up through the centre of Greece to more sacred sites but more importantly we take you in our prayers.
22nd June, 2009 - Posted by Ursula Stephens - No Comments
It’s Sunday and we’re all up early for a very special day - we are travelling by tender boat to Patmos to visit the Monastery of St John the Theologian and the cave that was his home when he was banished there for two years. It is said that St John wrote the text of Revelation in the Cave which is now built into the Monastery of the Apocalypse.
We’re all feeling sprightly - no one was enticed into the disco till the wee hours - although this is a very popular cruise ship filled with the energy and noise of young people on holidays.
One of the American pilgrims we met yesterday in Lindos fell and is now in a fibreglass cast - poor thing! It reminds us that for St Paul there would have been many dangers in his travels too. Lord, may your blessing and protection surround us as we travel in the footsteps of St Paul.
This afternoon we are going to the House of the Virgin Mary and to Ephesus - we’re back on the boat and heading to Kusadasi in Turkey. (more…)
22nd June, 2009 - Posted by Archbishop Mark - 3 Comments
These days it’s not often that I learn something from a tour guide. I hope that doesn’t sound smug or arrogant but it’s just a fact. It’s part of being on the earth for sixty years and doing some of the things I’ve done. But we have had a couple of first-class guides so far, and the one we have at the moment - Iacovos, known as James - is a cracker. This guy really knows history (fair bit of Bible too) and speaks excellent English; he even has an Italian mother. He told us today that the Greek word “cosmos” means “world”, which I thought was pretty obvious. He then said - and this is what I didn’t know - that it also means “jewel”. Hence the English word “cosmetic”. Great point, I thought. The Greeks regarded the planet as a jewel, and how right they were. The first cosmonauts were moved by the beauty of the planet seen from a distance - a sapphire shrouded in lace, they thought.
St Paul in his Letter to the Romans speaks of the whole creation, the cosmos, groaning in a great act of giving birth. I thought of the light throbbing at the heart of this jewel planet, like a child wanting to leave the womb. The birth will come when the light bursts from the jewel, and the name of the light is Jesus. Until then we are aglow with the promise of the birth to come, a jewel spinning through dark space. (more…)
21st June, 2009 - Posted by Ursula Stephens - No Comments
Friday
This morning we are packed and ready to embark on our boat trip - not a cruise, we’re told- because ours is a trip with purpose.
Our ship is very comfortable - we have three nights on board and the opportunity for talks, prayer, mass and conversations all sprinkled among the cultural expose that is this Aegean paradise.
We begin with a short bus ride to the port of Priaus, where we have to surrender our passports and are provided with an identity card!
Then, aboard and settled we meet for Mass. We are joined by a few other passengers who share in our reflection of the readings. (more…)
We’re a motley group of pilgrims. Meeting for the first time in Sydney international terminal, tentative smiles and nods, acknowledging the distinctive carry on bags that identified us all. Some of us had met at the briefing meeting- others were meeting for the first time. As we nudged forward in the check-in queue I saw a hand waving a long way down the line - it was Fr Francise, shepherding the Canberra group.
We met again in the departure lounge- Fr Francise resplendent in a green and gold Australia bucket hat, Archbishop Francis moving gingerly onto the plane and the long journey to Athens. We’re off!
“Love and move inwards, discover your will. Shed heart’s invasions and the mind’s harsh control” Pope John Paul II.
We have a pilgrim journal and to reflect on the import of each day takes discipline as we move in the footsteps of St Paul. (more…)
20th June, 2009 - Posted by Archbishop Mark - 1 Comment
The island of Rhodes has a long and colourful history, much of which is on show as you stroll through the town and visit its monuments as we did today. In places like Rhodes, you realise that the ancient world didn’t vanish. It may have been demolished in a sense, but the bits and pieces were all gathered up and reconfigured in later times. We have no idea, for instance, what happened to the Colossus of Rhodes after its destruction in an earthquake well before the Christian era. It was so huge (and even huger if we includes pedestals etc) that it couldn’t simply have vanished. In all likelihood, its many fragments were reincorporated in various ways into the town we now see. It’s the same with the pagan gods. They didn’t vanish; they were reconfigured.
20th June, 2009 - Posted by Archbishop Mark - No Comments
I’m writing this from a boat anchored off Mykonos. Perhaps I should say a ship because it’s a very big boat. In fact, compared to anything St Paul took to sea in, this is enormous. But compared to the vast floating hotel anchored close to us, our vessel looks puny.
I’ve been saying to the pilgrims that this isn’t a cruise; it’s a voyage…a pilgrimage across the water from Athens to Ephesus via Mykonos, Rhodes and Patmos. This Aegean world became the Apostle’s natural habitat. For much of his missionary life, he moved in a triangle made up of Corinth in the west, Ephesus in the east and Macedonia (Philippi and Thessalonica) in the north….with a lot of water and islands in the middle.
Sea travel in Paul’s day was such a precarious business that he often preferred to go overland. It may have taken longer and been much harder work, but it was less hazardous than sea travel in an age when ships hadn’t mastered the art of tacking into the wind which was always adverse in the sailing season if travelling in the Mediterranean from east to west or south to north. If the wind were adverse, as it often was, then you could be becalmed for days or weeks. Even when the wind was favourable, the ships were small, hard to steer and very unstable even on the mill-pond of the Mediterranean. They tended to stick as close as possible to the shore or to lurch from island to island as best they could. (more…)
23rd June, 2009 - Posted by Pilgrims - No Comments
From Neil:
Comment from Neil at the end of the day “We have just had one of our major exeperiences as we visited the monasteries of Meteora” (see “Messages”)
From Ted:
From Fr Warrick Tonkin
After the majesty of the monastic communities of Meteroea we are now traversing the central Macedonia, the home territory of Phillip and Alexander the Great. St. Paul knew this area well. While we are travelling by air-conditioned coach, Paul went on foot, and the landscape is far from flat. The apostle to the Gentiles was nothing if not fit. Soon we will celebrate Mass at Berea, where Paul also stopped and preached.
It’s Monday and we are back in the bus heading north , following the ancient trade route in the footsteps of St Paul.
We have several hours of travel to cover the distance to our next stop, up through the mountains and then down and across the rolling plains towards the town of Kalambaka.
As the bus climbs away from the coast the landscape changes and starts to look more familiar. We can see why many Greek migrants would feel at home in regional Australia.
The temperature is milder too - the thermometer in the bus is showing about 26C and there are cloudy skies. (more…)
Nothing could have prepared us for the magnificence and significance of Ephesus!
Only now did we begin to understand the anxiety of Archbishop Mark and the guides to get us there!
There is a splendour to the grandeur that are the ruins of Ephesus! The grace and elegance of the ruins give life to the pivotal role that Ephesus played as a trading post and as a centre of scholarly learning.
Its grandeur in size and proportions makes us feel small and insignificant. The technology and innovation that is evident is mind boggling - cantilevered arhes, drains, public toilets(much like present day). (more…)
24th June, 2009 - Posted by Sister Barbara - No Comments
By now the pilgrims have prayed in Mary’s House at Ephesus and reflected on the mystery of her son, the Son of God and rejoiced in her title, Theotokos, given her by the Council of Ephesus as long ago as 431. They have prayed in some of the great monasteries of the early church, monasteries in which the great Jewish prayers, the Psalms became enshrined in the church’s liturgy, the Prayer of the Hours. Our pilgrims, too, have silently stood within one of the ancient centres for the devotion of the icon, a devotion to which we of the west are increasingly being attracted. (more…)
24th June, 2009 - Posted by Archbishop Francis - No Comments
St Paul was not only a spiritual giant but he must also have had great physical stamina to walk the distances we are travelling in
the comfort of a bus. As we leave Thessoloniki may I join Paul in his blessing to the church there and sent it to you all “May the God of peace himself sanctify you entirely; and may your spirit and soul and body be kept sound and blameless at the coming of Our Lord Jesus Christ”.
Walking through the gate that Paul would have used to bring the Gospel to the Thessalonians
24th June, 2009 - Posted by Archbishop Mark - No Comments
We have made it to the edge of Europe - or at least to the edge of Europe as the Roman Empire understood it. We are at Kavala which used to be Neapolis, the port at which Paul first set foot upon the soil west of the Dardanelles (or the Hellespont as it was the called). This is the thin stretch of water which separated Roman Europe from the province of Asia Minor which included much of the western part of Turkey. Not far from here was the city of Philippi where Paul founded his first European community.
In the Acts of the Apostles, we’re told that Paul came here after a vision of a Macedonian man pleading that Paul come across the water to help them. The vision was convenient because it certainly matched Paul’s sense that he had received a divine commission to preach the Gospel where no-one else had been. At this stage, Christianity had certainly reached Rome, though we’re not too sure how and when. But Macedonia was virgin territory for Christian missionary work.
Whatever about the vision, the decision to launch a European mission was a huge one for Paul and his team. I can imagine long team meetings discussing the pros and cons. Then once the decision was made, there must have been more meetings discussing the strategy - who would go where and when and how they would operate once they reached European soil. The risks were enormous. How would they be received? What if the whole thing came to nothing? Would they even survive, given the likelihood of persecution? What would the Church in Jerusalem think? What would be the response of Paul’s opponents who had created such havoc in Asia Minor? These were surely some of the questions that Paul, Silvanus and Timothy discussed. (more…)
Our outdoor Mass at Berea was very spiritual. It would seem the Altar of St Paul is used by many pilgrim groups. Our reading (Acts 17) allows us to reflect on St Paul’s treatment by the Thessaloneans.
Archbishop Mark explains how Paul would have used his Jewish connections as an entree into the communities where he preached and so he preached at the synagogues to Jews and those “men and women of influence” who operated on the margins of the synagogues - Gentiles who did not want to embrace the rules and strictures of the Jewish faith but who were drawn to the evangelising messages of St Paul.
We are called to communal action through the Pauline mission. (more…)
25th June, 2009 - Posted by Ursula Stephens - No Comments
We wake to cloudy skies and make our way to the bus for this morning’s visit to the Church of St Demetrios’ Church. Like most of the churches of its day, the site has been occupied, shaped and adapted through the ages, and so there are different styles of architecture - Roman, byzantine, Islamic, Christian and Coptic evident, beautiful mosaics and frescoes abound as well as prescious icons.
It is the Feast of St John the Baptist and we arrive at the church during the reading of the gospel. (more…)
We are having a spirit filled day today with our visit to Phillipi where St Paul preached and established the first church in Europe, a vibrant Christian community.
We begin with the Pilgrim’s prayer from our journal: Our father in heaven you are the aim and object of our lives and the goal of our pilgrimage…..
We drive from Kavala to Phillippi a distance of about 22kms , seeing evidence of the ancient road - the Via Egnatia - that St Paul travelled. We arrive at the Baptistery of St Lydia.
Archbishop Mark reads the beginning of St Paul’s letter to the Phillipians, written when he was imprisoned in Ephesus. Then we walk through an old cemetery (necropolis) to the stream where St Paul met Lydia and the other women and preached the gospel.
Donna looking out from her window at Casa San Giuseppe
Today is Helen’s birthday and there’s something lovely about the idea of waking up in Greece and going to bed in Italy!
Today we’re back on the bus for the two hour drive to Thessaloniki. James our guide tells us that the media has reported that the storm we drove through on our way to Kavala delivered more rain than the area has had for a year and that about 300 sheep and goats had drowned!
We begin our trip with the morning prayers and Archbishop Mark spends time putting St Paul’s missions in sequence, with the over-riding theme that he was always heading west to Rome. (more…)
28th June, 2009 - Posted by Archbishop Mark - 2 Comments
We came to Rome a little more briskly than did Paul. The Acts of the Apostles tells us that, after leaving Malta, the ship put into Syracuse for three days and then headed from Sicily to the Italian peninsula where it touched down at Reggio Calabria. After a couple more days, they came to Pozzuoli near Naples, the birth-place of Sofia Loren. Paul stayed there for a week with believers he found there. Then we have the laconic punch-line of Acts: “And so we came to Rome”.
Christians from Rome, we are told, heard of Paul’s arrival and came to meet him at the Forum of Appius and Three Taverns. The Forum of Appius was about 75km from Rome, so this was a considerable act of homage. They would then almost certainly have passed through Velletri and entered Rome through the Porta Appia, better known today as the Porta San Sebastiano. Then he would have been taken to the place of his house arrest which was, according to tradition, on the Aventine Hill in the home of his old friends Prisca and Aquila who had prepared the way for Paul in Corinth and Ephesus and now did the same for him in Rome.
28th June, 2009 - Posted by Ursula Stephens - No Comments
It’s Saturday in Roma!
With such a profoundly moving day yesterday ( we covered a great distance but took some 7500 steps) today is going to be wonderful and hard work.
We wake refreshed in the knowledge that we are not so much living out of our suitcases - this has become quite significant in our minds!
First, breakfast together then onto the bus for our trip to the Catacombs. Archbishop Mark translates a prayer to St Paul from Rome as we make our way along the busy streets marvelling at the mix of old and new. (more…)
It’s Sunday and we’re up early to attend Mass in one of the many chapels in the crypt of St Peter’s Basilica. Our usual routine is to get a wake up call at 6, breakfast at 7 and into the bus by 8, but this morning we’re all dragging our feet and Fr Francise is anxious that we not be late.
We say the Morning Prayer from our pilgrim journal together as we make our way to the Vatican precinct. The Basilica looks magnificent bathed in the morning light. We scurry across the square and into the Basilica. The Archbishops, priest and deacons disappear to get dressed (Green vestments today), leaving us some time to take in the magnificence of St Peters. (more…)
29th June, 2009 - Posted by Sister Barbara - 1 Comment
As I was reading Ursula Stephens’ (thank you, Ursula) I was struck forcibly by her comments regarding Bishop Mark’s homily, Beyond the Sight, and his reminder to us that martyrdom still exists for many Christians today. I find myself thinking a lot of the challenge given the pilgrims - and consequently ourselves as virtual pilgrims - in this emphasis on martyrdom. For the word “martyr” really means being a witness to Christ, a witness in life as well as in death. (more…)
30th June, 2009 - Posted by CatholicLIFE - 2 Comments
CLICK HERE to read Prime Minister Kevin Rudd’s message posted in the messages guestbook. Text of the message is below:
From: Kevin Rudd and Therese Rein
Greetings to Ursula and Bob, Archbishop Mark and your fellow pilgrims.
St Peter’s is truly an inspiring place.
As is Paul, whose journeys you followed all the way to Rome. Truly the Apostle to the Gentiles.
While you’ve been in Rome today, I have been visiting the good Sisters at the Convent of Blessed Mary McKillop here in Kirribilli. They are excited at her progress towards sainthood. I told them in part it would be enhanced by her taking on the Archbishops of her day - but don’t tell Archbishop Mark I said so.
Next week I see the Holy Father in Rome myself and will pass on their greetings and yours too when I do so.